Hugging Croatia’s craggy limestone shoreline, our small ship heads north towards Split, sailing through a silky sheen of a sea. We glide through cobalt channels between dozens of islands, most uninhabited save for birds. Early morning mist blurs the contour lines of Croatia’s hills.
On our Adriatic odyssey with Unforgettable Croatia, we are far from the behemoth cruisers with their thousands of passengers. After three days that took in Dubrovnik, Ston’s oysters, Mljet’s National Park and Korcula, the 36 passengers and 9 crew are becoming an extended family.
Settled into our comfortable cabins, we are creating our daily routines. Lana, our Cruise Director, is our guru. Not just keeping us up to speed on the daily programme. She is our concierge. Recommending wines “easier to drink than to pronounce” and tossing in titbits of local culture and history. She is our guardian too: “Don’t try to swim to that island on the horizon.”
Day 4: The Blue Cave and Vis
Leaving Kor?ula’s harbour at dawn gives time for a lengthy swim stop. Another secluded cove fringed by olive trees and the sun-bleached branches of their predecessors. It is time for full-face mask snorkels, paddle boards, noodles and inflatable kayaks.
Early afternoon tenders take us, from the small island of Biševo ducking into the unforgettable natural phenomenon of The Blue Cave.
From there it is a short voyage to the time-warp island of Vis. West of Split, the island had a key strategic position in both the Second World War and the Cold War. Its sixteen military bases, including a nuclear shelter for 200, effectively made it a no-go area for tourists for almost half-a- century. Its quiet harbour and uncrowded palm tree piazzas creating a yesteryear ambience. A distinctly Greek aura attracted film-makers to use the island as the location for the ABBA movie-sequel, Mamma Mia – Here We Go Again.
One of Unforgettable Croatia’s restaurant recommendations is Lola, a restaurant managed by a Spanish-Croatian couple who bring tapas style menus to al fresco tables. Oleanders, ferns and terracotta pots create a magical tiered garden.
Day 5: Hvar
Our destination is Hvar, boasting over 2,700 hours of sunshine a year, one of the sunniest Adriatic islands. En-route, our captain finds a sheltered spot for the crew to get out the flippers, snorkels, inflatable kayaks and paddle boards for a morning swim.
On Hvar island, we moor at Stari Grad, the original Greek founded town. A coach takes us through a fertile plain, divided by ancient drystone walls, where grapes and olives are grown. Add in fish and you have the essentials of the UNESCO recognised Mediterranean diet.
For 2,400 years Hvar has created wine. The cool basement of Vini Tomi? with its exposed nave stonework is modelled on the architecture of the Diocletian Palace. A suitably palatial setting for testing five of Vini’s fine wines.
Next, the coach takes us to the fortress overlooking Hvar and the Pakleni Islands for a panoramic photo stop. That leaves late afternoon and early evening to explore a buzzing town renowned for attracting celebrities, such as Prince Harry in his bachelor days, to the night life.
In complete contrast to Hvar’s hedonism, six monks at the Benedictine monastery patiently work on weaving black lace from the fine fibre of agave plants which are more commonly known for being tequila’s key ingredient. It is time consuming labour and the lace they produce is locally purchased to celebrate special occasions.
Black Pepper is one of the recommendations of the Unforgettable Croatia restaurant guide. Tables are positioned on the steps of an alley of bougainvillea, agapanthus and geraniums looking down on the harbour. After a welcome glass of wild rose liqueur, the local speciality of brodetto, sea food on a bed of polenta, gets my vote for the main course.
Finally, there is time to browse Hvar’s evening market, jewellery and lavender products dominate, before the coach takes us back to My Wish.
Day 6: The Homeland War and Trogir
Before a late morning swim, over half the guests gather to hear Lana explain how in the early 1990s the Homeland War saw Yugoslavia disintegrate.
Second World War resistance hero Marshall Tito had been a popular leader rebelling against Moscow’s influence. After 15 alleged Soviet planned assassination attempts, Tito warned Stalin that he would retaliate by sending one assassin to Moscow who would not fail.
When Tito died in 1980, tensions between Serbia and other regions pulled the Yugoslav states apart until war broke out in 1991. Ultimately, Croatia regained its territory and an uneasy peace was established, providing independence for the tiny country of Croatia and its 4 million people.
“Growing up in Zagreb, we were lucky. We were bombed just twice,” Lana concluded.
We sail on to “Little Venice”. As Trogir had been under Venetian control from the 14th to 18th centuries, the nickname is no surprise. The pristine small city, a previous winner of National Geographic’s Best Island City award, is an open-air museum of well-preserved Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture.
In fact, St Lawrence Cathedral, begun in 13th century took so long to complete that it is a guide to changing architectural fashions through the ages.
Amongst the narrow alleyways of the Old Town, Marcella established in 1277, proudly proclaims that they are the 33rd generation of the family to create find jewellery.
Although there isn’t a dress code for the Captain’s Dinner, guests emerge from their cabins looking very elegant as they prepare for the sparkling wine toast. Live music accompanies the four- course dinner and there is even a little dancing.
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Day 7: Split
The short voyage from Trogir to Split is broken by the final stop for a swim.
Back in 305 AD, Diocletian the Roman Emperor, took the unusual step of abdicating. He retired to Split, named by the Greeks for its profusion of yellow Spanish broom plants, for its climate and plentiful fresh water. Also to discourage assassins who he thought would be reluctant to kill a God, he declared that he was the son of Jupiter.
Today, the remains of his vast palace are interspersed with ATMs, cafes and AirBnBs, yet it is still the largest remaining Roman Palace. Invaluable for filming dragon stables for Game of Thrones episodes. As visitors leave the Palace it is difficult to avoid giving an imperial half turn of a hand wave to mere mortals who should really avert their gaze.
Getting the restaurant guide out for one last time, the evening provides another opportunity to explore Croatia’s culinary scene. Portofino does not disappoint with a lobster and truffle fettucine followed by an incredibly light and superbly decorated lemon and raspberry dessert.
The cost
Cruise Croatia offers seven-night cruises from £1,795 per person, including breakfast, lunch, private transfers, all excursions and Wi-Fi. Flights are not included. For further information on May to October 2025 departure dates, visit Unforgettable Croatia or call 0208 004 2345.
The final verdict
Guests revel in the swim-stops and the opportunities to get active. Some of the shore-stops offer bike-hire facilities too. Consequently, guests on board range through the ages from 15 to 80.
Cruising 250 nautical miles over seven days, Unforgettable Croatia’s easy-going and luxurious itinerary is a relaxing way to discover Croatia’s stunning coastline. A warm and friendly crew introduce guests to Croatian culture, food and drink throughout the voyage.
Disclosure: Our cruise was sponsored by Unforgettable Croatia.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Although Michael had his first travel pieces published nearly four decades ago, he is still finding new luxury destinations to visit and write on.
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