The four days went
swiftly but has left a lasting impression of beauty and fear, while still
flying towards Beijing I am still apprehensive of my impending freedom (?! I am
still heading to China I have to remind myself). Korean tour guides have
escorted us since arriving by train in Pyongyang, our only rest late night at
the hotel on an island separate from the people of Korea – but even then I was
unable to prevent myself concocting conspiracy theories of what mat happen next,
and how the country runs.
Korea is a land Istill know little of, unless we can spend more significant amounts of time in
the country we will only ever be “aliens” descending on a land that has pretty
much remained stuck in the time-warp. This however is not a country where
oppression is very visibly evident, regardless of what the western media
portrays. My people watching didn’t seem to reflect what I had seen on TV or in
the news. They were sociable and engaged, if somewhat protective of their country
and state. People do smile, they believe in their leaders and they have
opportunities that many poor people in the west don’t have, for example
children having access to free education and extra-curricular activities.
Though I do feel that a lot of this is a distraction for the people from
political thought – though there were many times in which I felt incredibly
relaxed in the Korean’s company. I still find it hard to fathom the true
culture and belief system in DPRK.
Their belief system
is somewhat inaccessible as their leaders pretty much proclaim themselves as a
god/king-like figure, and lying in state highlights how its been indoctrinated
into the culture. A line of kings has ruled the country since 1953, promoting a
story of rising from rags to riches, that has kept the belief of their plight
alive. Time has shown the weakness of the country and its apparent keenness to
demonstrate its strength and position in the world by developing nuclear arms. Our
guide proudly confirmed that as recently as 2011 nuclear weapons were
successfully tested. It is also widely believed the country has a real satellite;
the truth here is still unknown. Yet it’s international network has declined
significantly, once flying as far as Morocco and Russia the national air
carrier – Air Koryo – now only hops to China, Indonesia and Malaysia . Likely
the result off the back of the Cold War since less communist countries exist.
Admittedly my own
values ethics and beliefs were somewhat tested while in Korea. The simplicity
of life provides its own value, even just for a few days. Large empty streets,
long expansive highways, no advertising or commercial marketing – only state
propaganda, no computers yet mobile phone usage is on the rise, no Internet, a
simplified metro system, no pollution and a community that appeared to exist for
one another. This seemed somewhat special, an escape from our hectic western
world yet what accompanies this way of life is sad and depressing, even if on
the surface smiles are apparent.
A social class
system naturally created through communism and different roles in society
enforces individuals and families to live long suffering lifes in their
economic position sanctioned by rations and access to payment. Is it though
really that different to the world of the west? How far does our
propaganda position us in society? How our supposed democracy frees us and
gives us choices? How our shackles are financial and education?